A proper mushroom risotto needs no cream to taste creamy. The starch from the arborio rice, stirred in ladle by ladle, turns into a sauce that coats every grain.
I sear the mushrooms separately first so they turn deeply golden instead of steaming grey, then fold them through at the end with butter and parmesan.
It takes about 45 minutes and a little patience, but the stirring is the whole pleasure of it. Serve it in warm bowls with extra parmesan on top.
Ingredients
- 450 g (1 lb) mixed mushrooms (cremini, button, shiitake), sliced
- 3 tbsp olive oil, divided
- 300 g (1 1/2 cups) arborio rice
- 1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 120 ml (1/2 cup) dry white wine
- 1 litre (4 cups) warm vegetable stock
- 60 g (4 tbsp) unsalted butter, divided
- 50 g (1/2 cup) freshly grated parmesan, plus more to serve
- 4-5 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves picked
- Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Instructions
- Sear the mushrooms: Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Sear half the mushrooms in a single layer for 4-5 minutes until deeply golden, then repeat with the rest. Season with salt and set aside.
- Sweat the aromatics: Lower the heat to medium. Add the remaining 1 tbsp oil and the onion with a pinch of salt; cook 4 minutes until soft and translucent. Stir in the garlic and thyme and cook 1 minute more.
- Toast the rice: Add the arborio rice and stir for 2 minutes until the grains look translucent at the edges and smell faintly nutty.
- Deglaze: Pour in the white wine and stir, scraping up any browned bits, until the wine is almost fully absorbed, about 2 minutes.
- Add stock gradually: Add the warm stock one ladle at a time, stirring often and waiting until each ladle is nearly absorbed before adding the next. After 18-20 minutes the rice should be al dente and suspended in a creamy sauce. You may not need all the stock.
- Mantecatura and serve: Take the pot off the heat. Vigorously beat in the butter and parmesan, then fold in the seared mushrooms. Cover and rest 2 minutes. The risotto should ripple slowly when you shake the pot. Serve in warm bowls with extra parmesan and black pepper.
Tips for the best result
- Keep the stock warm in a separate saucepan. Cold stock shocks the rice and slows the release of starch.
- Do not rinse arborio rice: the surface starch is exactly what makes the risotto creamy.
- A mix of mushroom varieties gives far more flavour than one type alone; shiitake and cremini are a great pair.
- Risotto waits for no one. Have your bowls warm and your guests seated before the final stir.
Storing and reheating
Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Reheat gently on the stove with a splash of stock, stirring until creamy again. Freezing is not recommended; the texture turns grainy.
Frequently asked questions
Can I make risotto without wine?
Yes. Replace the wine with an extra 120 ml of stock plus a squeeze of lemon juice at the end for brightness.
Why is my risotto gluey instead of creamy?
It was likely stirred too aggressively early on, or the heat was too low. Stir often but gently, and keep the stock at a steady simmer.
Which rice works best for risotto?
Arborio is the classic choice. Carnaroli gives an even creamier result if you can find it. Do not use long-grain rice.
Can I add protein to this risotto?
Yes. Seared chicken strips or crispy pancetta folded in at the end both work well.
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